The layers
A driveway that lasts a decade is built in layers, not dumped in one:
- Base: 6–8″ of large crushed stone (2–3″ minus), compacted. This is the structural layer that spreads vehicle loads.
- Surface: 3–4″ of smaller stone (3/4″ minus or crusher run), compacted. This is what you drive on — the fines in crusher run lock it together.
On firm, sandy soil you can shave an inch or two off the base. On clay or soft ground, go thicker — or lay geotextile fabric under the base to stop the stone from migrating down into the mud. Fabric is the cheapest insurance in driveway building.
Crowned, not flat
Grade the driveway with a slight crown (about 2% fall from center to edges) so water sheets off instead of pooling. Standing water is what kills gravel driveways — it softens the base and carves ruts.
Maintenance math
Even a well-built gravel driveway needs a fresh 1–2″ of surface stone every 2–4 years. Budget for it with the gravel calculator — topping up is cheap, rebuilding is not.
FAQ
Can I put gravel straight on dirt?
On firm, well-drained soil, a thin layer works for a walking path. For a driveway on clay or soft soil, stone sinks into mud within a season or two — use geotextile fabric or a real crushed-stone base.
How deep should gravel be for a driveway?
6–8″ of compacted base plus 3–4″ of compacted surface, roughly 10–12″ total on soft ground. Depths in the calculator are compacted inches — loose stone compacts 20–30%.
Tools for the job
Affiliate links (placeholder — no real links yet).